Bellies -vegan tasting menu that punches well above its weight
- Gard Karlsen
- Apr 20
- 2 min read
We stopped by Bellies recently, and as always, it was an absolute pleasure. Our table was at 8:30 pm which is a touch late for my liking, but we kicked things off with cocktails from their compact yet considered drinks menu. I went for a sea buckthorn and gin, which was bright, sharp, and refreshingly balanced. A great start.
Snacks arrived almost immediately. First up: kohlrabi with horseradish — punchy, clean, and vibrant. Hot on its heels came local potato with kale, followed by the now-classic oyster mushroom with a whisper of jalapeño. Three bites in, and Bellies had already made its intentions clear: no filler, all flavour.
I opted for the wine pairing for the evening. We opened with a Chenin Blanc from Sakkie Mouton in South Africa — a lively, textured pour that set the tone beautifully. The first warm course was a striking raviolo with quince and wild garlic, all color and delicacy. This was swiftly followed by a grilled celeriac with celeriac purée and an absolutely silky sherry sauce. Don't you dare skip that sauce.
A dry Riesling from Weingut Von Hövel arrived, and then came the undisputed highlight of the evening — grilled yellow turnip in a spicy, tangy sea buckthorn sauce. This dish sent me straight to Southeast Asia. Bold umami, a citrusy heat, sweetness right on the edge — it had the soul of something you'd find at a street stall in Thailand. My only note? A slightly sweeter Riesling might have been the perfect partner for it.
We moved on to a dry white from Joan Rubio in Spain, paired with gnocchi and white asparagus. In isolation, an accomplished dish — but served immediately after the fireworks of the turnip course, it inevitably felt a little quieter. That said, the brioche served alongside it? Honestly heavenly. One of those breads you think about on the way home.
The main course brought oyster mushroom with Sichuan pepper — rich, earthy, and deeply satisfying. A natural match for the Langhe Nebbiolo from Margherita Otto in the gorgeous Monforte d'Alba within the Barolo district. We visited a few years back and can wholeheartedly recommend a trip if you ever get the chance.
We closed with a Tokaji in hand and a beautifully composed citrus-based pandan "ice cream" dessert which was elegant and refreshing, though the portion was generous to the point of being slightly overwhelming. Then came a final flourish: a black koji "ice cream" that was extraordinary — complex, savoury-sweet, and completely unlike anything else. We wrapped things up with a small pour of Grappa Capovilla Torcolato 2001 before stepping out into the spring evening.
The verdict
This was an exceptional plant-based tasting menu as always. One note on pacing: with a late reservation, the courses came at quite a clip. Next time, we'll book earlier to let the meal breathe a little more. In other words, book early, come hungry, leave amazed.
Pros: - great plant based menu - good service - good wine pairing
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