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Writer's pictureGard Karlsen

Quiet night at Restaurant Broken

Restaurant Broken opened just a few weeks back (in November 2024) near Pedersgata! It is located in Langgata 9 just across from Kansui. Broken has been in the making for some time as we encountered them at the Gladmat festival this year. From what we have heard, Broken will be a seafood fine dining restaurant and chef Alan Kaye has apparently worked around the world. When we stepped into the restaurant on a Saturday night, we were a bit surprised to see only 3 other tables occupied. It turned out that Alan was doing a one man show this evening and hence it makes sense to have a limited number of guests.


The restaurant has a set 4 course menu, and I decided to have the beef heart “tartare” as an additional dish. We decided to have a bottle of Paulinshof Brauneberger Kammer Riesling GG (wine pairing is also offered) before we got some homemade bread and butter.

We started with some canapés – a bacalao ball that had a good, dried cod taste and a Jerusalem artichoke soup. The soup itself was good, but it was cold and maybe too cold as it had a very firm and basically a jelly like consistency. We moved onto thin slices of pollock that were prepared ceviche style. We enjoyed this as it had a great flavor of the fish and we did love the pickled vegetables on top.


Next dish was poached trout that was deliciously tender served with a smooth onion purée and some champagne sauce. This was served on a warm plate which is great as you want the food to stay warm as you enjoy it! I got my additional dish after the trout and I have had beef heart before but not heart prepared at a low temperature for two days. Heart has a certain taste and consistency so this will not be something that will work for everyone. For me it was good but not a dish that I will be craving on my next visit.


We moved on to fish again and this time pan fried halibut. The fish was great, and I loved the small carrot purée lumps – they were bursting with carrot flavor. It also came with a ragu of rabbit that appeared a bit anonymous compared to the rest of the flavors. The salsify root on the other hand was something that caught our attention – I think it is the first time we have had this!


We ended the meal with a sort of cheese cake and got some sweet wine with this.


All in all this was a good meal served at a comfortable pace. Kudos to Alan for being able to serve up a meal like this when being alone in the restaurant. I hope that he will get supporting staff soon to bring out the true potential of the restaurant.


Pros:

- a restaurant with focus on seafood

- cozy, small restaurant


Cons:

- lack of atmosphere as there were few people - the chef had to be waiter/sommelier/chef

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